News & Reviews

Birmingham Mail Review

24th September 2009

STEVE Love is a chef with a fine pedigree, having worked with such culinary luminaries as Alan Ducasse, Claude Bosi and Gary Jones. Of course, possessing an impressive CV is one thing and delivering the goods is quite another.

But on the evidence of a visit to his newly opened restaurant Loves, I’ve no doubt that we have in Birmingham a chef of immense talent.

The best food is, I think, defined by an imagination that doesn’t run riot but nevertheless mixes and matches sometimes unusual ingredients and techniques while still respecting each component’s integrity. It is also defined, I believe, by a lightness of touch.

Love’s food delivered in bundles on the Saturday night I ate their with my wife and two friends.

Thus a butternut squash foam was wonderfully light yet possessed a beguiling depth of flavour that was perfectly complemented by a spot of goats’ cheese.

My next course – unceremonially entitled Beetroot and Tuna – was even more spectacular: a joy to the eyes and palate. Cubes of beautifully fresh, tender tuna came dotted with a tiny speck of what tasted almost like orange curd. Alongside lay raw, cooked, pickled, jelly and sorbet versions of the vegetable – all different in texture and flavour.

One particularly memorable component featured a white crumbly and salty cheese wrapped in the vegetable. And a shot glass of beetroot foam – again with enormous depth – added another dimension.

A main of venison – Bambi has never tasted so gamey – was also a triumph. It came with a garlic-infused green cabbage and sassy but not crude pickled cabbage. Among its partners were fondant potatoes, a jus of impeccable balance and a splash of melted Valrhona chocolate that added interest and a hint of bitterness.

The shared cheeses – with banana bread, various crackers and condiments – were in tip-top condition.

I progressed to another dish with an understated name – Pineapple and Coconut. This was a grown up dessert with limited sweetness but delightful flavours. Poached pineapple sat atop a porridge made of coconut and complemented by a sorbet.

My companions ate various complex and deeply satisfying dishes, each member of our party singing their choices’ praises. We shared a bottle of New Zealand pinot noir and various soft drinks.

Here is a restaurant which is up there among Brum’s best. Expect to hear far more about Steve Love.


This article was written by Paul Fulford, Birmingham Mail

You can view the original article by clicking the link below
http://www.birminghammail.net/lifestyle/food-and-drink/restaurant-reviews/2009/09/24/love-s-restaurant-canal-square-browning-street-birmingham-tel-454-5151-97319-24769931/