News & Reviews

Food Review by Virgin Train's Magazine, Hotline

2nd November 2009

What’s not to love about this new gem in Birmingham?

A restaurant renaissance is taking place in Birmingham that has begun to pique the interest of even London’s snootiest critics. Jessica’s and Simpsons started the trend, now Purnell’s and Loves are continuing it. The Lilliputian Loves opened in mid-September, with scarcely space for 30 seats. But don’t let the proximity of the next diner put you off. Done out in comfy modern neutrals, Loves is one of the best restaurants to open in Birmingham since Glynn Purnell launched his eponymous eatery in 2007. The married Loves run the show,With Steve in the kitchen and Claire welcoming at the front. They’ve been serving acclaimed food to Midlanders at restaurants in Stratford-upon-Avonand Leamington Spa since 2001, but now they’ve rented a canal side building in a new development off Broad Streetand struck out on their own. They’re hoping success here will bring national attention. On our visit, the service was friendly but not intrusive, the wine list reasonable (our west Australian Pinot was £24) and the cooking exceptional. For just £20 for two courses (though more for à la carte) they serve food with the kind of boldness and finesse That should attract next year’s Michelin reviewer. Ling with tomato jelly, fennel and salt-cod fritter is a delight. The fillet of ling – a (whisper it) cheaper, pleasingly meaty alternative to cod– is jazzed up with the jelly textures and herby flavours of the sauce.Extravagant desserts like pain perdu, with a silky home-made ice cream and crispy caramelised banana is sure to have Brummie gastronomes flocking. Impressive.


This article was written by Chris Beanland

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